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In this cold and wet December, when rain comes suddenly and unapologetically, we crawl the Southern Route to Batangas City, gritting our teeth through slow traffic in areas where road widening seems to extend forever. In my brother’s “garden suite,” where he was forced to cage his dogs for a day, messages poured into our FB thread called Batangas Peeps:
“On the way na.”
“Malapit na.”
“Stuck lang konti sa traffic po.”
“Lakas po ng ulan dito ngayon.”
Meanwhile, my sister dons her event planner/organizer persona, decorating our venue. My sister-in-law assists her (though the place is hers), supplying all demanded party plus-plus: tables, a Christmassy background for picture taking, Santa Claus socks hung on a flimsy but cute décor. She even bought new chair pillows.
Honestly, this is already enough reason why I can’t treat our family reunion as optional.
As the house slowly filled and nephews and nieces, with their little ones, came eagerly in cars loaded with gifts, laughter rose even before greetings were completed. Someone immediately asked if the food was enough, but no one needed to worry. Family brought pancit, lumpiang shanghai, sinaing na tulingan, embotido, humba, nilagang sitaw at kalabasa, Jollibee fried chicken, suman sa lihiya, suman sa gata, puto, kutsinta, chocolate tart, piña, grapes, saging—too much food in fact, that after the party, everybody brought home a Sharon share of the pot.
We ate with enthusiasm and without restraint, because this is a no-holds-barred affair: you eat without apology, knowing that tomorrow you will still be family. For me, the excess food was symbolic of God’s ample grace. There is always enough. The reunion reminds me that abundance is the rule of God’s blessings; scarcity is never the norm in His economy.

We did our traditional gift giving, everyone gives everyone a gift. As usual, we don’t really care what the actual gifts are. They are often perky, cute, sometimes corny, sometimes weird. But it’s not the price; it’s the thought. That someone thought of you, picked something with you in mind, wrapped it with care, wrote your name on the tag, and handed it over with a smile.
As I shopped, wrapped, and handed my gifts to every member of the family, I was conscious of how much I’ve always prayed for each one by name. Remembering them this Christmas is only a segment of that routine.
Then came the games with my nephew as emcee, now a pro at inventing games that make everyone temporarily lose their dignity. Simple, easy mechanics that everyone ignores anyway. Laughter explodes when someone is eliminated. Raffle prizes, small and actually, what are they? are announced with exaggerated suspense. Someone complains her name was never put in the jar. Losses are disputed loudly. Wins are celebrated like championships.
In this ritual, silence would have felt wrong.

The kids set up camp. My brother placed a tent in one corner of our meeting place, so it became their headquarters. Inside, they secretly ate candies their parents warned them about, opened their tablets, and played Minecraft, zipping the tent closed so no adult could say, “Stop the tablet!”
Their shrieks and laughter sometimes rose above adult chatter. And I’m reminded: reunions are also about letting the children feel what it means to belong to a family. It’s not the rain or the traffic they’ll remember. It’s the tent. The cousins. The feeling of being known.
Meanwhile, us adults wanted updates. We annoyed the Gen Z nephews and nieces with questions about work, plans, dreams, love lives. We masked our curiosity with tender urging, wanting to know where they stand on the edge of becoming.
One nephew, fresh from a government office where the budget miraculously returned, got roasted for being part of the “suddenly-rich” squad, “financially enabled,” as we teased, while he grinned and pretended not to flex his new status. Meanwhile, our January bride-to-be basked in the spotlight as we cornered her fiancé, dragging him into the games and threatening (with dramatic flair) to boycott the wedding if he dared to sulk or sit out. Everyone else got the mock-warning too: cross our niece and consider yourself “disinvited”, family banter code for we adore her and you better, too.
A full house does something to my spirit. It reminds me I am part of something that did not begin with me and will not end with me.

This gathering is not merely convenient. It is necessary.
Everything can be postponed, rescheduled, or attended virtually. But a family reunion resists isolation. It insists that showing up matters, that presence is irreplaceable.
Bodies in one space, voices overlapping, shared meals, curious interrogations, these are not optional extras squeezed into a busy life. They are the scaffolding that holds our personal histories together. Before we became busy, accomplished, tired, or carefree, this is where we were: this family. We see one another not as roles, but as people, growing, aging, changing, maturing.
My brother made sure the sound system was loud enough to disturb the barangay. There was dancing, picture-taking, and eating with our hands or disposables, with a trash can just nearby to avoid an eventual mess. Families wore coordinated outfits, that is, one color per unit. My sister-in-law made sure everyone went home with ham and a bag of leftovers.
The family reunion is a gift. It’s something nobody should miss, even just for the assurance of a presence that enlarges the heart and lifts the spirit. When the afternoon was dim enough for everyone to go back to their busy lives, we stretched our goodbyes, returning tables and chairs to their corners. In this Christmas gathering, where everybody made sure they were present, we had some happy rest in our family’s embrace.

I grew up in Batangas, in three homes. The first one, until I was six, was a rented silong on D. Silang Street. Before sunrise, I would run across the street to Ka Ede’s sari-sari store to buy our coffee. Isang gatang lang po, I’d say, as he ground the beans by hand with a wooden, hand-cranked grinder. He poured them into a balinsuso paper wrap, folded neat like a funnel, which I carried home carefully. Soon after, the kapeng barako would be boiling in the takure, and the house filled with its rich aroma as we got ready for the day.
Breakfast was simple. We dipped pandesal in coffee or poured coffee on rice, depending on what was there. We always had fish, sinaing na tulingan or pritong aligasin. I never thought about whether our meals were balanced or not. Inay always put food on the table, and we were never hungry. Only later, when I was already working in Manila, did I realize that those were difficult years for her.
In Batangas, coffee is simply kape. You ask for it plainly: Pagbili nga po ng kape. Outside the province, though, Barako is what people recognize. It has even become a brand. But barako isn’t always a flattering word. Nabarako means outwitted by someone more cunning. Nakakabarako ka ah is said with offense and a hint of warning. Barakuhin is someone likely to get into fights. A barako can even mean a carabao with horns. Matatapang daw ang Batangueno—mga barako.
More from WordHouse: A House for Words, Reflection and Memory
Now, onto the paper fold that holds the coffee. The balinsuso is a funnel-shaped fold, completely closed at the bottom. Ka Edes poured the ground coffee into this triangle and locked the top with a crinkle. I carried it home like dirty ice cream. In those days, they didn’t place anything you bought in plastic supot or labo, so I had to be careful on my way, lest I trip and spill the coffee. I’m not sure if there’s any other secure fold that doesn’t require origami skills, but this one is a classic coffee bag.

Batangas lies along Batangas Bay and is known for its many beaches. Just off its coast is Isla Verde, where the Verde Island Passage forms a strait that connects the Pacific Ocean and the South China Sea. Naturally, fish abound in the market and most Batanguenos can name them. But even up to my college years, I used aligasin to name almost all the long, slim, red-orange fish I ate. Dalagang bukid was rounder, still orange. Hiwas was flat, like a small pagi or stingray. And what Batangueno doesn’t know Tulingan?
My grandmother, Nanay, as I called her, was a fish vendor. I didn’t see her selling in the market, but whenever we were at her house in the ‘bukid‘ as we referred to it, I sometimes woke early enough to join her at the shore. She chose from banyeras of fresh catch, bargaining with fishermen. Later she would sell the fish at tumpok prices in the market. By the time she returned home, a banyera balanced on her head, it was filled with bread, paborita, suman, melon, grated coconut, pakaskas, rice, bihon, and even bars of Safeguard and Ajax detergent. She still wore her apron, still smelled faintly of the market, and always had her wide smile, her eternally red mouth busy with nganga.
Nanay loved to cook for us when we visited. She always served two breakfasts. The first, at sunrise, was utaw or rice coffee with paborita biscuits crushed into it, something that has remained a family favorite. The second was closer to brunch: fried rice with sinaing na tulingan or pinais, and a real sweetened cup of kapeng barako poured over rice.
Our histories are as islanders

My most textured memories always go back to those times of our visits to my grandparents. I can imagine Inay struggling to haul the four of us, since we first had to take a tricycle from our rented place in Dolor Subdivision (this was where we lived when I was eleven; I was the eldest). Then we would cross a hanging bridge in Wawa, Batangas. We four siblings always scared her as we gleefully walked across the bridge, feigning dizziness and delighting in the swing whenever we ran. Afterward, we’d pass through a forest of palms, our slippers tucked like gloves into our hands, as we walked barefoot, laughing at the occasional shallow sinks in the slimy, dark, watery ground. Once we reached solid sand, we would shout the name of our sundo on the other side of the river. Then Mamay or my uncle would come and fetch us in a rowboat.
I’ve long tried to write a story set in that memory. I realize now that I, too, carry an island narrative. My grandparents’ house is gone, taken by storms, quarrying, and the sea. Yet every time I see barako or sinaing na tulingan sold in sealed containers at malls, I am pulled back to Nanay’s kitchen, to her folded nganga leaves, to the balinsuso-style packets she made.
These fragments may never form a complete story, and maybe they don’t have to. Writing them down keeps the memory alive. And who knows, someone else might find in them a piece of their own story too.
Fragments can grow into stories as we keep them on the page.